Hey friends,
It's been almost three weeks since swear-in, and I'm still not at my permanent site. But that's about to change! On Thursday, the three of us Mortlocks volunteers are flying out there, and I'm starting to get really excited. I'm happy to be flying, although from what I have heard the flight is, how do I say this... a little terrifying. The plane is an 8 seater twin prop and the runway on Ta (the only island in the Mortlocks with a landing strip) is short and narrow. I have been assured that the pilot is very skilled, but I'm sure it will be an interesting experience.
The last three weeks have been very mellow for me. I did help write that grant for the Chuuk Women's Council, but that really only took up about 3 or 4 days of my time. I spent about two weeks on Tonoas with my host family there who I absolutely loved. I played a lot of chess with my host father and had some great conversations with him on everything from his experiences living on Satowan to his (sometimes heated) conversations with the Jehovah's Witnesses who stop by every week. Any time I come in from the Mortlocks I am really going to make an effort to see that family.
For Thanksgiving, a bunch of volunteers came in to Weno from their various islands (everybody else has gone to their permanent sites by now, so I don't see them very often any more) and we had three Thansgiving dinners, one on Thursday one on Friday and one on Saturday. None of them involved turkey or mashed potatoes, but they were all pretty tasty. Although I expected to become friends with my fellow PCVs, I didn't think we would become this close. It's a little hard for me to believe that I have known these people for less than three months. They are all awesome people and we have become not only a support group for one another but also really good friends. Needless to say, it was great to see everyone one more time before I head out to Satowan.
Living here in the Pacific, there are many things that remain constant no matter what. It is always hot. It is always humid. The sun rises and sets at the same time no matter what time of year it is. That being said, there are times when I briefly forget where I am or what I'm doing here. If I get absorbed in a book, or am checking my email or Facebook, or am watching a movie, there's always a moment when I snap out of it and think "Holy crap! I'm thousands of miles away from home on a timy island in the biggest ocean in the world." I don't know if it still hasn't really sunk in that I'm really here, or if that will just be a constant feeling.
I'm doing my best to keep my mind in the present and focused on what I am doing here. It's hard though. I often find my mind wandering back to Colorado or Silver Spring (or sometimes my fellow PCVs) and wondering what everybody is up to. I'm hoping that once I get out to Satowan, I will be able to focus a little more on my work and my community. But maybe not.
Overall, my first three months of Peace Corps have been absolutley increadible. I couldn't have asked for better host familys or better Peace Corps friends. I am of the opinion that I can do anything and be anywhere as long as I am surrounded by poeple who I care about and who care about me, and I have that here.
So this is probably going to be the last post for a while. I'll be back in Weno next February or March (there's a chance I'll be able to access the internet before then, but no guarantees). Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah everyone, and I'll catch you up on my adventures in 2011!
Lots of love,
Ben
P.S. My old SAT Phone wasn't working properly, so Peace Corps issued me a new one. The new number is 8816-4141-9876. Same instructions as before to send a message, but new number.
November 28, 2010
November 13, 2010
Volunteer!
Hey friends,
Well, I made it. Last Wednesday I swore an oath to protect the constitution of the United States from all enemies foreign and domestic, and officially became a Peace Corps Volunteer. The ceremony was really nice. There were speeches from the mayor of Tonoas, the lieutenant Governor of Chuuk, and the Country Director of Peace Corps Micronesia. All of the new volunteers gave speeches as well, in the local language. I'm sure mine wasn't great, but I think I got my point across.
So as a brand new Peace Corps Volunteer, I'm heading off to my island of service, right? Well, not yet. The plane that flies to the Mortlocks isn't running until the first week of December because the pilot is on vacation. So I'll take the state-run ship, The Milo, right? No, actually The Milo is dry docked in Japan right now for repairs. So I'll take one of the privately owned ships, right? Yes, but they only run when they feel like it, and right now it appears that none of the ships really feel like going anywhere. So... I might be stuck in the lagoon for a while. It could be anywhere from a week to a month. Realistically, I'm not expecting to get out there until after Thanksgiving. Oh well, I can roll with the punches.
So for the next however long, I'm going to be splitting time in Weno and Tonoas. I'm trying to keep myself busy, and actually stumbled into a pretty cool project. I randomly met the president of the Chuuk Women's Council, a few days ago. She needs help writing a grant proposal, so I readily offered to write it. I figure it will not only give me something to do for the next couple of weeks, but will give me an in with a relatively important person. Yay!
Besides that, I plan on playing my guitar a lot, going spear fishing (I'll be sure to write about that), climbing coconut trees, and enjoying the island lifestyle.
All the best,
Ben
P.S. My address will be the same once I go out to Satowan, but you can start addressing the letters to Ben Perdue, Peace Corps Volunteer instead of Ben Perdue, Peace Corps Trainee!
Well, I made it. Last Wednesday I swore an oath to protect the constitution of the United States from all enemies foreign and domestic, and officially became a Peace Corps Volunteer. The ceremony was really nice. There were speeches from the mayor of Tonoas, the lieutenant Governor of Chuuk, and the Country Director of Peace Corps Micronesia. All of the new volunteers gave speeches as well, in the local language. I'm sure mine wasn't great, but I think I got my point across.
So as a brand new Peace Corps Volunteer, I'm heading off to my island of service, right? Well, not yet. The plane that flies to the Mortlocks isn't running until the first week of December because the pilot is on vacation. So I'll take the state-run ship, The Milo, right? No, actually The Milo is dry docked in Japan right now for repairs. So I'll take one of the privately owned ships, right? Yes, but they only run when they feel like it, and right now it appears that none of the ships really feel like going anywhere. So... I might be stuck in the lagoon for a while. It could be anywhere from a week to a month. Realistically, I'm not expecting to get out there until after Thanksgiving. Oh well, I can roll with the punches.
So for the next however long, I'm going to be splitting time in Weno and Tonoas. I'm trying to keep myself busy, and actually stumbled into a pretty cool project. I randomly met the president of the Chuuk Women's Council, a few days ago. She needs help writing a grant proposal, so I readily offered to write it. I figure it will not only give me something to do for the next couple of weeks, but will give me an in with a relatively important person. Yay!
Besides that, I plan on playing my guitar a lot, going spear fishing (I'll be sure to write about that), climbing coconut trees, and enjoying the island lifestyle.
All the best,
Ben
P.S. My address will be the same once I go out to Satowan, but you can start addressing the letters to Ben Perdue, Peace Corps Volunteer instead of Ben Perdue, Peace Corps Trainee!
October 25, 2010
Pictures!
After relentless nagging from my mother, I've posted some pictures. They're not great, but they will give you an idea of where I am.
http://picasaweb.google.com/benjamin.perdue
http://picasaweb.google.com/benjamin.perdue
A Nation in Between
A few weeks ago, when I was still in Pohnpei, I saw something that really stuck in my head. My host sister, Lolima, was sitting in the living room watching a DVD of the Jonas Brothers on the family's flat-screen TV. As she was sitting there, a chicken walked into the house and started pecking at the floor next to her. Lolema laughed and shooed the chicken out before returning her attention to the Disney Channel stars.
This image is very indicative of the state of the FSM: it is a nation caught between. It is between two huge continents, individual states and and a federation, and between tradition and Westernization.
Lets take those one at a time:
There are reminders of the fact that they are geographically located between two continents everywhere. Chuuk was the headquarters of the Japanese Navy during WWII and there are remnants of Japanese infrastructure from the war all over the place. I've seen countless bunkers, caves, and towers, not to mention the tourists on the cruise ships who go diving every day to look at the ship wrecks. Most of this infrastructure, as I have been told multiple times, was built by Chuukese people who were essentially enslaved by the Japanese. As you might imagine, there is a fair amount of resentment towards the Japanese here, although much of it has died down in the time since the war.
The Federated States of Micronesia is composed of four states--Pohnpei, Chuuk, Yap, and Kosrae-- and was established in 1986. The preamble to the constitution (which was actually written by a former Peace Corps Volunteer) states that "the ocean does not divide us but unites us." I couldn't agree more. The only problem is that the ocean is pretty much the only thing that the islands have in common and unites them. They have completely different languages and cultures, and therefor do not have a strong national identity. The political system was based on the the US's, so there is a national government as well as state governments, but the FSM government is almost entirely funded by the US as laid out by the Compact of Free Association. I'll write more about the Compact later because it is really important here.
The tension between tradition and Westernization is palpable. As the story above shows, it's present in all aspects of daily life. Here's another example. Micronesians are overwhelmingly Christian--the missionaries came in and went to town! That being said, many Micronesians hang on to traditional superstitions and stories. Magic is also everywhere. Ask someone how Nan Modal (which is a impressive and really old fort in Pohnpei) was made, and you'll hear that it was made by magic. Satowan, the island where I am going, is rumored to produce the most powerful love potion in all of Micronesia. Just spray a little of the perfume on yourself, and the girls will come running. (I'm not making that up.)
That's enough rambling for one day. Hope all is well on the homefront. Pictures are coming, I promise!
All the best,
Ben
This image is very indicative of the state of the FSM: it is a nation caught between. It is between two huge continents, individual states and and a federation, and between tradition and Westernization.
Lets take those one at a time:
There are reminders of the fact that they are geographically located between two continents everywhere. Chuuk was the headquarters of the Japanese Navy during WWII and there are remnants of Japanese infrastructure from the war all over the place. I've seen countless bunkers, caves, and towers, not to mention the tourists on the cruise ships who go diving every day to look at the ship wrecks. Most of this infrastructure, as I have been told multiple times, was built by Chuukese people who were essentially enslaved by the Japanese. As you might imagine, there is a fair amount of resentment towards the Japanese here, although much of it has died down in the time since the war.
The Federated States of Micronesia is composed of four states--Pohnpei, Chuuk, Yap, and Kosrae-- and was established in 1986. The preamble to the constitution (which was actually written by a former Peace Corps Volunteer) states that "the ocean does not divide us but unites us." I couldn't agree more. The only problem is that the ocean is pretty much the only thing that the islands have in common and unites them. They have completely different languages and cultures, and therefor do not have a strong national identity. The political system was based on the the US's, so there is a national government as well as state governments, but the FSM government is almost entirely funded by the US as laid out by the Compact of Free Association. I'll write more about the Compact later because it is really important here.
The tension between tradition and Westernization is palpable. As the story above shows, it's present in all aspects of daily life. Here's another example. Micronesians are overwhelmingly Christian--the missionaries came in and went to town! That being said, many Micronesians hang on to traditional superstitions and stories. Magic is also everywhere. Ask someone how Nan Modal (which is a impressive and really old fort in Pohnpei) was made, and you'll hear that it was made by magic. Satowan, the island where I am going, is rumored to produce the most powerful love potion in all of Micronesia. Just spray a little of the perfume on yourself, and the girls will come running. (I'm not making that up.)
That's enough rambling for one day. Hope all is well on the homefront. Pictures are coming, I promise!
All the best,
Ben
October 12, 2010
Chuuk!
Hey friends,
I finally made it to Chuuk, but not without some excitement first. We were supposed to leave Pohnpei on Saturday afternoon, but I've already learned that nothing happens when or how it's supposed to here. There was apparently too much rain for the plane to land in Pohnpei, so it skipped Pohnpei and and went all the way to Chuuk. (Side note: Pohnpei is one of the rainiest places on Earth. This overflying business is apparently relatively common.) Continental thoughtfully sent a "rescue flight" from Guam to pick up the stranded passengers in Pohnpei. Less thoughtful was the fact that the flight was going straight back to Guam without stopping in Chuuk. So... after all was said and done, I ended up staying in Kolonia for an extra two days, hanging out at a hotel with the other Chuuk trainees.
...But I'm here now!
Chuuk is a different world from Pohnpei. As my friend Naavid (another Chuuk trainee) put it, "Pohnpei was Beverly Hills compared to Chuuk." Even in the rural municipalities of Pohnpei, there was a well-paved road, electricity, running water, and some small shops. In Weno, the capital of Chuuk, there is intermittent electricity, crumbling buildings, and a "road." I would say that the road is full of potholes, but it would be more accurate to say that there are potholes with occasional road. You can't drive more than about 10 mph without bottoming out and you pretty much have to drive either a pickup truck or an SUV. Bear in mind that Weno is by far the most developed place in Chuuk.
Right now I'm living in Tonoas, which is another island in the Chuuk lagoon. There are pretty much no cars to be found on the Tonoas. I live in a pretty nice house with a really nice host family. I sleep on a foam pad, shower with a bucket, and use a "benjo" or local toilet, which is glorified hole in the ground. I'll be here for five weeks and then it will only get more rural when I go out to Satowan.
Because I'm going to an outer island, Peace Corps issued me a Satellite phone. This is great for communicating with Peace Corps staff, but it's also great because I can receive text messages for free! Here's how it works:
1) go to www.iridium.com
2) click on "Send a Satellite Message" at the top of the page
3) type in my number: 881641419881 (no need for a reply email, just tell me who you are)
4) send me a message!
I should have pretty consistent internet access for the next 5 weeks, so if you have questions you can feel free to email me and I should be able to respond.
All the best,
Ben
I finally made it to Chuuk, but not without some excitement first. We were supposed to leave Pohnpei on Saturday afternoon, but I've already learned that nothing happens when or how it's supposed to here. There was apparently too much rain for the plane to land in Pohnpei, so it skipped Pohnpei and and went all the way to Chuuk. (Side note: Pohnpei is one of the rainiest places on Earth. This overflying business is apparently relatively common.) Continental thoughtfully sent a "rescue flight" from Guam to pick up the stranded passengers in Pohnpei. Less thoughtful was the fact that the flight was going straight back to Guam without stopping in Chuuk. So... after all was said and done, I ended up staying in Kolonia for an extra two days, hanging out at a hotel with the other Chuuk trainees.
...But I'm here now!
Chuuk is a different world from Pohnpei. As my friend Naavid (another Chuuk trainee) put it, "Pohnpei was Beverly Hills compared to Chuuk." Even in the rural municipalities of Pohnpei, there was a well-paved road, electricity, running water, and some small shops. In Weno, the capital of Chuuk, there is intermittent electricity, crumbling buildings, and a "road." I would say that the road is full of potholes, but it would be more accurate to say that there are potholes with occasional road. You can't drive more than about 10 mph without bottoming out and you pretty much have to drive either a pickup truck or an SUV. Bear in mind that Weno is by far the most developed place in Chuuk.
Right now I'm living in Tonoas, which is another island in the Chuuk lagoon. There are pretty much no cars to be found on the Tonoas. I live in a pretty nice house with a really nice host family. I sleep on a foam pad, shower with a bucket, and use a "benjo" or local toilet, which is glorified hole in the ground. I'll be here for five weeks and then it will only get more rural when I go out to Satowan.
Because I'm going to an outer island, Peace Corps issued me a Satellite phone. This is great for communicating with Peace Corps staff, but it's also great because I can receive text messages for free! Here's how it works:
1) go to www.iridium.com
2) click on "Send a Satellite Message" at the top of the page
3) type in my number: 881641419881 (no need for a reply email, just tell me who you are)
4) send me a message!
I should have pretty consistent internet access for the next 5 weeks, so if you have questions you can feel free to email me and I should be able to respond.
All the best,
Ben
October 3, 2010
October 1, 2010
Site announcement!
Hey everybody!
For the last two weeks, the other trainees and I have been anxiously awaiting the day that we would find out our permanent sites. Well, today was the day—I finally found out where I will be for the next two years!
Drumroll please…
I am going to Satowan, an outer island in the Mortlocks of Chuuk. Satowan has a population of about 400 and has no electricity except for a few solar panels. There are two ways to get there: the “metal coffin” (as the locals call it), a 9 seat plane which takes two hours, or a 24 hour ride on a fishing boat. Peace Corps sends me out there on the plane, but I’m going to try to take the boat at least once. Needless to say, I’m pumped! There is apparently an island in the Mortlocks which is about a 45 minute boat ride from Satowan which has internet access. This means that conceivably every month or so I will be able to go there and access the magical interwebs and all the wonders contained within.
There are 7 of us who are going to Chuuk and we will have the next five weeks of our training on one of the lagoon islands of Chuuk near the main island of Weno. I will be learning Mortlockese, and you can be sure that I will do my best to learn it because I think that the chances that anyone in Satowan speaks English are slim. I can’t wait to update my resume: “Conversational in Mortlockese.” I can hear the interview question now—“What and where are the Mortlocks?
Because I’m moving, my address is changing! I updated the address posted on this blog, so effective immediately, be sure to send any mail to that address. Yes, I can receive and send mail! It may take an extra week or so to get to me, but it will get to me.
One month down, and doing well! Google Satowan and see what comes up!
Lots of love,
Ben
For the last two weeks, the other trainees and I have been anxiously awaiting the day that we would find out our permanent sites. Well, today was the day—I finally found out where I will be for the next two years!
Drumroll please…
I am going to Satowan, an outer island in the Mortlocks of Chuuk. Satowan has a population of about 400 and has no electricity except for a few solar panels. There are two ways to get there: the “metal coffin” (as the locals call it), a 9 seat plane which takes two hours, or a 24 hour ride on a fishing boat. Peace Corps sends me out there on the plane, but I’m going to try to take the boat at least once. Needless to say, I’m pumped! There is apparently an island in the Mortlocks which is about a 45 minute boat ride from Satowan which has internet access. This means that conceivably every month or so I will be able to go there and access the magical interwebs and all the wonders contained within.
There are 7 of us who are going to Chuuk and we will have the next five weeks of our training on one of the lagoon islands of Chuuk near the main island of Weno. I will be learning Mortlockese, and you can be sure that I will do my best to learn it because I think that the chances that anyone in Satowan speaks English are slim. I can’t wait to update my resume: “Conversational in Mortlockese.” I can hear the interview question now—“What and where are the Mortlocks?
Because I’m moving, my address is changing! I updated the address posted on this blog, so effective immediately, be sure to send any mail to that address. Yes, I can receive and send mail! It may take an extra week or so to get to me, but it will get to me.
One month down, and doing well! Google Satowan and see what comes up!
Lots of love,
Ben
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