After relentless nagging from my mother, I've posted some pictures. They're not great, but they will give you an idea of where I am.
http://picasaweb.google.com/benjamin.perdue
October 25, 2010
A Nation in Between
A few weeks ago, when I was still in Pohnpei, I saw something that really stuck in my head. My host sister, Lolima, was sitting in the living room watching a DVD of the Jonas Brothers on the family's flat-screen TV. As she was sitting there, a chicken walked into the house and started pecking at the floor next to her. Lolema laughed and shooed the chicken out before returning her attention to the Disney Channel stars.
This image is very indicative of the state of the FSM: it is a nation caught between. It is between two huge continents, individual states and and a federation, and between tradition and Westernization.
Lets take those one at a time:
There are reminders of the fact that they are geographically located between two continents everywhere. Chuuk was the headquarters of the Japanese Navy during WWII and there are remnants of Japanese infrastructure from the war all over the place. I've seen countless bunkers, caves, and towers, not to mention the tourists on the cruise ships who go diving every day to look at the ship wrecks. Most of this infrastructure, as I have been told multiple times, was built by Chuukese people who were essentially enslaved by the Japanese. As you might imagine, there is a fair amount of resentment towards the Japanese here, although much of it has died down in the time since the war.
The Federated States of Micronesia is composed of four states--Pohnpei, Chuuk, Yap, and Kosrae-- and was established in 1986. The preamble to the constitution (which was actually written by a former Peace Corps Volunteer) states that "the ocean does not divide us but unites us." I couldn't agree more. The only problem is that the ocean is pretty much the only thing that the islands have in common and unites them. They have completely different languages and cultures, and therefor do not have a strong national identity. The political system was based on the the US's, so there is a national government as well as state governments, but the FSM government is almost entirely funded by the US as laid out by the Compact of Free Association. I'll write more about the Compact later because it is really important here.
The tension between tradition and Westernization is palpable. As the story above shows, it's present in all aspects of daily life. Here's another example. Micronesians are overwhelmingly Christian--the missionaries came in and went to town! That being said, many Micronesians hang on to traditional superstitions and stories. Magic is also everywhere. Ask someone how Nan Modal (which is a impressive and really old fort in Pohnpei) was made, and you'll hear that it was made by magic. Satowan, the island where I am going, is rumored to produce the most powerful love potion in all of Micronesia. Just spray a little of the perfume on yourself, and the girls will come running. (I'm not making that up.)
That's enough rambling for one day. Hope all is well on the homefront. Pictures are coming, I promise!
All the best,
Ben
This image is very indicative of the state of the FSM: it is a nation caught between. It is between two huge continents, individual states and and a federation, and between tradition and Westernization.
Lets take those one at a time:
There are reminders of the fact that they are geographically located between two continents everywhere. Chuuk was the headquarters of the Japanese Navy during WWII and there are remnants of Japanese infrastructure from the war all over the place. I've seen countless bunkers, caves, and towers, not to mention the tourists on the cruise ships who go diving every day to look at the ship wrecks. Most of this infrastructure, as I have been told multiple times, was built by Chuukese people who were essentially enslaved by the Japanese. As you might imagine, there is a fair amount of resentment towards the Japanese here, although much of it has died down in the time since the war.
The Federated States of Micronesia is composed of four states--Pohnpei, Chuuk, Yap, and Kosrae-- and was established in 1986. The preamble to the constitution (which was actually written by a former Peace Corps Volunteer) states that "the ocean does not divide us but unites us." I couldn't agree more. The only problem is that the ocean is pretty much the only thing that the islands have in common and unites them. They have completely different languages and cultures, and therefor do not have a strong national identity. The political system was based on the the US's, so there is a national government as well as state governments, but the FSM government is almost entirely funded by the US as laid out by the Compact of Free Association. I'll write more about the Compact later because it is really important here.
The tension between tradition and Westernization is palpable. As the story above shows, it's present in all aspects of daily life. Here's another example. Micronesians are overwhelmingly Christian--the missionaries came in and went to town! That being said, many Micronesians hang on to traditional superstitions and stories. Magic is also everywhere. Ask someone how Nan Modal (which is a impressive and really old fort in Pohnpei) was made, and you'll hear that it was made by magic. Satowan, the island where I am going, is rumored to produce the most powerful love potion in all of Micronesia. Just spray a little of the perfume on yourself, and the girls will come running. (I'm not making that up.)
That's enough rambling for one day. Hope all is well on the homefront. Pictures are coming, I promise!
All the best,
Ben
October 12, 2010
Chuuk!
Hey friends,
I finally made it to Chuuk, but not without some excitement first. We were supposed to leave Pohnpei on Saturday afternoon, but I've already learned that nothing happens when or how it's supposed to here. There was apparently too much rain for the plane to land in Pohnpei, so it skipped Pohnpei and and went all the way to Chuuk. (Side note: Pohnpei is one of the rainiest places on Earth. This overflying business is apparently relatively common.) Continental thoughtfully sent a "rescue flight" from Guam to pick up the stranded passengers in Pohnpei. Less thoughtful was the fact that the flight was going straight back to Guam without stopping in Chuuk. So... after all was said and done, I ended up staying in Kolonia for an extra two days, hanging out at a hotel with the other Chuuk trainees.
...But I'm here now!
Chuuk is a different world from Pohnpei. As my friend Naavid (another Chuuk trainee) put it, "Pohnpei was Beverly Hills compared to Chuuk." Even in the rural municipalities of Pohnpei, there was a well-paved road, electricity, running water, and some small shops. In Weno, the capital of Chuuk, there is intermittent electricity, crumbling buildings, and a "road." I would say that the road is full of potholes, but it would be more accurate to say that there are potholes with occasional road. You can't drive more than about 10 mph without bottoming out and you pretty much have to drive either a pickup truck or an SUV. Bear in mind that Weno is by far the most developed place in Chuuk.
Right now I'm living in Tonoas, which is another island in the Chuuk lagoon. There are pretty much no cars to be found on the Tonoas. I live in a pretty nice house with a really nice host family. I sleep on a foam pad, shower with a bucket, and use a "benjo" or local toilet, which is glorified hole in the ground. I'll be here for five weeks and then it will only get more rural when I go out to Satowan.
Because I'm going to an outer island, Peace Corps issued me a Satellite phone. This is great for communicating with Peace Corps staff, but it's also great because I can receive text messages for free! Here's how it works:
1) go to www.iridium.com
2) click on "Send a Satellite Message" at the top of the page
3) type in my number: 881641419881 (no need for a reply email, just tell me who you are)
4) send me a message!
I should have pretty consistent internet access for the next 5 weeks, so if you have questions you can feel free to email me and I should be able to respond.
All the best,
Ben
I finally made it to Chuuk, but not without some excitement first. We were supposed to leave Pohnpei on Saturday afternoon, but I've already learned that nothing happens when or how it's supposed to here. There was apparently too much rain for the plane to land in Pohnpei, so it skipped Pohnpei and and went all the way to Chuuk. (Side note: Pohnpei is one of the rainiest places on Earth. This overflying business is apparently relatively common.) Continental thoughtfully sent a "rescue flight" from Guam to pick up the stranded passengers in Pohnpei. Less thoughtful was the fact that the flight was going straight back to Guam without stopping in Chuuk. So... after all was said and done, I ended up staying in Kolonia for an extra two days, hanging out at a hotel with the other Chuuk trainees.
...But I'm here now!
Chuuk is a different world from Pohnpei. As my friend Naavid (another Chuuk trainee) put it, "Pohnpei was Beverly Hills compared to Chuuk." Even in the rural municipalities of Pohnpei, there was a well-paved road, electricity, running water, and some small shops. In Weno, the capital of Chuuk, there is intermittent electricity, crumbling buildings, and a "road." I would say that the road is full of potholes, but it would be more accurate to say that there are potholes with occasional road. You can't drive more than about 10 mph without bottoming out and you pretty much have to drive either a pickup truck or an SUV. Bear in mind that Weno is by far the most developed place in Chuuk.
Right now I'm living in Tonoas, which is another island in the Chuuk lagoon. There are pretty much no cars to be found on the Tonoas. I live in a pretty nice house with a really nice host family. I sleep on a foam pad, shower with a bucket, and use a "benjo" or local toilet, which is glorified hole in the ground. I'll be here for five weeks and then it will only get more rural when I go out to Satowan.
Because I'm going to an outer island, Peace Corps issued me a Satellite phone. This is great for communicating with Peace Corps staff, but it's also great because I can receive text messages for free! Here's how it works:
1) go to www.iridium.com
2) click on "Send a Satellite Message" at the top of the page
3) type in my number: 881641419881 (no need for a reply email, just tell me who you are)
4) send me a message!
I should have pretty consistent internet access for the next 5 weeks, so if you have questions you can feel free to email me and I should be able to respond.
All the best,
Ben
October 3, 2010
October 1, 2010
Site announcement!
Hey everybody!
For the last two weeks, the other trainees and I have been anxiously awaiting the day that we would find out our permanent sites. Well, today was the day—I finally found out where I will be for the next two years!
Drumroll please…
I am going to Satowan, an outer island in the Mortlocks of Chuuk. Satowan has a population of about 400 and has no electricity except for a few solar panels. There are two ways to get there: the “metal coffin” (as the locals call it), a 9 seat plane which takes two hours, or a 24 hour ride on a fishing boat. Peace Corps sends me out there on the plane, but I’m going to try to take the boat at least once. Needless to say, I’m pumped! There is apparently an island in the Mortlocks which is about a 45 minute boat ride from Satowan which has internet access. This means that conceivably every month or so I will be able to go there and access the magical interwebs and all the wonders contained within.
There are 7 of us who are going to Chuuk and we will have the next five weeks of our training on one of the lagoon islands of Chuuk near the main island of Weno. I will be learning Mortlockese, and you can be sure that I will do my best to learn it because I think that the chances that anyone in Satowan speaks English are slim. I can’t wait to update my resume: “Conversational in Mortlockese.” I can hear the interview question now—“What and where are the Mortlocks?
Because I’m moving, my address is changing! I updated the address posted on this blog, so effective immediately, be sure to send any mail to that address. Yes, I can receive and send mail! It may take an extra week or so to get to me, but it will get to me.
One month down, and doing well! Google Satowan and see what comes up!
Lots of love,
Ben
For the last two weeks, the other trainees and I have been anxiously awaiting the day that we would find out our permanent sites. Well, today was the day—I finally found out where I will be for the next two years!
Drumroll please…
I am going to Satowan, an outer island in the Mortlocks of Chuuk. Satowan has a population of about 400 and has no electricity except for a few solar panels. There are two ways to get there: the “metal coffin” (as the locals call it), a 9 seat plane which takes two hours, or a 24 hour ride on a fishing boat. Peace Corps sends me out there on the plane, but I’m going to try to take the boat at least once. Needless to say, I’m pumped! There is apparently an island in the Mortlocks which is about a 45 minute boat ride from Satowan which has internet access. This means that conceivably every month or so I will be able to go there and access the magical interwebs and all the wonders contained within.
There are 7 of us who are going to Chuuk and we will have the next five weeks of our training on one of the lagoon islands of Chuuk near the main island of Weno. I will be learning Mortlockese, and you can be sure that I will do my best to learn it because I think that the chances that anyone in Satowan speaks English are slim. I can’t wait to update my resume: “Conversational in Mortlockese.” I can hear the interview question now—“What and where are the Mortlocks?
Because I’m moving, my address is changing! I updated the address posted on this blog, so effective immediately, be sure to send any mail to that address. Yes, I can receive and send mail! It may take an extra week or so to get to me, but it will get to me.
One month down, and doing well! Google Satowan and see what comes up!
Lots of love,
Ben
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